Okay, so here’s the thing: Iceland’s official religion is the Lutheran State Church and 80% of the population are registered members, though the country’s very secular and only a small percentage are actively practising. And about 5% practise Ásatrú, the revived old Norse religion. But it seems those numbers don’t tell the whole story because you keep seeing Norse symbols everywhere. Sometimes it feels like Christianity is just a thin veneer over beliefs and practises so much older and more deeply ingrained they’re just background noise in many people’s daily lives, blurring the line between history, culture and religion.